Day 5: Lasting

Today you’re going to begin attaching the midsole to the body of the shoe.
secure the assembled midsole sandwich to the last with a single nail. knock the nail so that it’s bent and flat against the sole.
put the leather over the last.
using small blue nails, a hammer, and a set of pliers, gently tug the leather of the lining over the midsole. you’ll probably want to start by securing the front and back quarter with a single nail, just to keep the alignment straight throughout the process. nail around the perimeter of the sole, increasing the frequency within curved areas; near the front or back, use a good number of nails and make sure to twist with the pliers to create folds; these folds will be later skived off. as you do this,make sure the nails are as close to the perimeter as possbile; you will later glue the leather to the midsole, so you want to have that seam allowance unobstructed by the nails
apply barge cement to the midsole perimeter and to the part of the lining you’ve just stretched over the midsole. let it dry for a while. then, pull it over and flatten it against the midsole. use a skiving knife to “flatten” this entire area, making it as smooth as possible... because this is the part that will later be glued to the actual sole leather
cut the sole leather using the sole pattern made earlier. give it a slight allowance on the outside to account for the fact that your leathers, being layered, will leave you with a slightly larger footprint. you’ll want to scuff up the areas of sole leather that will be in contact, when glued, with other parts (e.g. the back section that will attach to the heel, the the entire topside that will attach to the bottom of your midsole.) use a dremel or sanding machine
remember; the SMOOTH part of the sole leather will face down, to the street.
glue the sole leather to the heel and to the heel rubber. let them dry.
toe cap and back quarter thingy
using these plastic pieces, warm them with a heat gun and make sure they fit well over the toe and back quarter. skive away the bumps resulting from folding it over curvatures.
now the midsole glue and lining will be dry, so go ahead and do the same procedure for the outer leather, gently tugging it with the pliers over the edge and securing it with nails. repeat the gluing procedure and the skiving.
using a dremel or sander, smooth out the bottom of the shoe; make sure the surfaces are roughened to help the glue stick as strong as possible.
tacks. from the underside, hammer a few tacks into the back near the edge of the heel.
apply a generous portion of glue to the underside of the midsole and to the top of the sole. let them dry, then stick them together.
use a curved knife to shave the heel smooth. it’ll be a sandwich of sole leather, heel-sized piece of sole leather, and heel-sized piece of rubber.
the tacks you added earlier may have sharp ends sticking up; you’ll want to blunt them with a hammer.
finally, secure the heel with a couple of tacks from the inside. cover it with the insole. Done!